Creating a rose accord in perfumery requires a precise combination of structuring floral raw materials, modifiers and persistent base notes. Natural rose has a complex olfactory structure, which can be recreated by selecting ingredients capable of contributing body, brightness, texture, green realism, fruity volume and honeyed depth.
For fragrance houses, formulation laboratories, R&D teams and raw material buyers, the rose accord is a versatile technical structure. It can be developed as a fresh and transparent rose, a green and dewy rose, a fruity floral heart or a richer, honeyed composition.
ECSA Chemicals supports the Flavour & Fragrances industry with raw materials for fragrance and flavour applications.
What is a rose accord in perfumery?
A rose accord is an olfactory construction designed to reproduce or interpret the scent of rose within a fragrance composition. It is not based on a single ingredient, but on the combination of different raw materials, each with a specific olfactory and technical function.
A structured rose accord can include:
- floral alcohols for the main body of the rose;
- diffusive raw materials for brightness;
- ingredients that support petal texture and persistence;
- fruity modifiers for volume and softness;
- green modifiers for botanical realism;
- honeyed and waxy raw materials for warmth and depth;
- less volatile ingredients to extend floral performance.
Technical overview of raw materials for the rose accord
| Raw material | MP code | CAS number | Olfactory profile | Function in the rose accord |
| Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol (PEA) | MP 020685 | 60-12-8 | Delicate, floral, fresh, rose-water-like | Body and structural backbone |
| Geraniol | MP 033570 | 106-24-1 | Clean, radiant, rosy, citrusy, geranium-like | Brightness and diffusion |
| Citronellol | MP 000902 | 106-22-9 | Fresh, citric, clean, waxy, rosy | Texture and persistence |
| 2-Phenylethyl Acetate / Phenyl Ethyl Acetate | MP 002530 | 103-45-7 | Sweet, fruity, velvety, rose jam, honey, peach, ripe apple | Fruity pulp and softness |
| Benzyl Acetone | MP 042379 | 2550-26-7 | Floral-spicy, fruity, strawberry, plum, jasmine | Modern bridge to fruity notes and white flowers |
| Styrallyl Acetate | MP 018812 | 93-92-5 | Sharp green, pungent, rhubarb, grapefruit, slightly metallic | Green sap and botanical realism |
| Rose Oxide 90:10 | MP 042664 | 16409-43-1 | Fresh rose, lychee, geranium, green and slightly citrusy. More natural, delicate and radiant. | Brings freshness and the characteristic rose-lychee effect, creating a more natural and luminous accord. |
| Rose Oxide 70:30 | MP 000849 | 16409-43-1 | Intense rose, green, citrusy, with metallic and spicy nuances. More powerful and diffusive. | Enhances character and diffusion, emphasizing the green and fruity facets of the accord. |
| Ethyl Phenylacetate | MP 005918 | 101-97-3 | Sweet, honeyed, waxy, warm, raw honey, beeswax, sweet tobacco | Honeyed impact |
| Phenyl Ethyl Phenylacetate / Phenethyl Phenylacetate | MP 042377 | 102-20-5 | Faint but persistent, floral-rosy, honeyed, waxy, hyacinth-like | Deep fixative |
| Phenylhexanol / Phenoxanol | MP 030681 | 55066-48-3 | Rich, fresh, elegant, rosy-floral, fruity, green-citrus | Persistence of the floral heart |
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Floral alcohols: the structure of the rose accord
Floral alcohols are essential in the formulation of a rose accord because they provide the recognisable identity of the rose. They create the clean, fresh and floral base on which the other olfactory facets can be built.
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol, MP 020685, CAS 60-12-8, is one of the key raw materials for building the body of the rose. Its delicate, floral and fresh profile recalls traditional rose water. In the accord, it acts as a structural backbone and provides the transparent base for the other notes.
Geraniol, MP 033570, CAS 106-24-1, brings brightness and diffusion. Its clean and radiant rosy profile, with a citrus nuance and a facet reminiscent of geranium, helps the accord open in the air.
Citronellol, MP 000902, CAS 106-22-9, brings texture and persistence. Its fresh, citric, clean and waxy rosy odour helps recreate the impression of a fresh, wet petal, supporting the rose note over time.
Fruity and velvety modifiers for a modern rose heart
A rose accord gains greater three-dimensionality when fruity and velvety modifiers are added to the floral structure. These raw materials soften the profile, enrich the heart and make the accord more contemporary.
2-Phenylethyl Acetate, MP 002530, CAS 103-45-7, brings sweetness, fruitiness and a velvety effect. Its profile recalls rose jam, honey, peach and ripe apple. In the accord, it gives volume and roundness to the petals.
Benzyl Acetone, MP 042379, CAS 2550-26-7, has a floral-spicy profile with fruity nuances of strawberry, plum and jasmine. In the rose accord, it acts as a modern bridge between rose, fruity notes and white floral facets.
Green and dewy facets for botanical realism
A realistic rose accord is not based only on petals. It must also include the green tension of stems, leaves, closed buds and fresh botanical elements.
Styrallyl Acetate, MP 018812, CAS 93-92-5, brings a sharp and powerful green note, with fruity nuances of rhubarb and grapefruit. It introduces the impression of green sap, stems and closed buds, reducing excessive sweetness in the floral heart.
Rose Oxide, CAS 16409-43-1, with MP code 000849 indicated for the 70:30 variant, is a very powerful raw material with green, metallic, crystalline and lychee-like facets. Used at very low dosage, it can bring a fresh, dewy and highly diffusive effect. The 90:10 version supports a cleaner and more crystalline direction, while the 70:30 version offers a more herbaceous, tart and vegetal profile.
Honeyed and persistent raw materials for depth and fixation
The deeper dimension of a rose accord can be built with honeyed, waxy and persistent raw materials. These ingredients extend the floral signature and make it possible to create warmer and more opulent rose profiles.
Ethyl Phenylacetate, MP 005918, CAS 101-97-3, has a sweet, honeyed, waxy and warm profile. It can introduce nuances of raw honey, beeswax and sweet tobacco. In the accord, it provides an immediate honeyed impact in the heart and early base notes.
Phenyl Ethyl Phenylacetate, also known as Phenethyl Phenylacetate, MP 042377, CAS 102-20-5, is a low-volatility raw material with a faint but persistent floral-rosy, honeyed and waxy odour. It works as a deep fixative and helps preserve the velvety floral sweetness.
Phenylhexanol, or Phenoxanol, MP 030681, CAS 55066-48-3, has a rich, fresh and elegant rosy-floral profile, with fruity, green and citrus nuances. It supports the floral heart over time and helps maintain the impression of fresh petals in the later stages of the fragrance.
How to build different rose accord directions
By adjusting the balance between these technical raw materials, formulators can create different rose profiles.
A fresh and clean rose can be built around Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol, Geraniol and Citronellol.
A green and dewy rose can be developed with Styrallyl Acetate and Rose Oxide, used at controlled dosage.
A fruity and velvety rose can be built with 2-Phenylethyl Acetate and Benzyl Acetone.
A honeyed and opulent rose can be supported by Ethyl Phenylacetate, Phenyl Ethyl Phenylacetate and Phenylhexanol.
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Raw materials for fragrance formulation
Creating a rose accord requires olfactory expertise and access to reliable raw materials. Each ingredient contributes to a precise function: structure, diffusion, texture, botanical realism, fruity softness, honeyed warmth or long-lasting support.
ECSA Chemicals supplies raw materials for the Flavour & Fragrances industry, supporting professionals in sourcing, formulation development and industrial fragrance creation.
Looking for raw materials to formulate a rose accord?
Contact ECSA Chemicals to identify the most suitable raw materials for your fragrance development projects.